Inspired by the story of Queen Padmavati and Rajasthan, this edit explodes with colour and textures
Read the full article: Inspired by the story of Queen Padmavati and Rajasthan, this edit explodes with colour and textures
The Vaishali S couture label was founded in 2004 and is born out of designer Vaishali Shadangule’s lifelong love for classic Indian weaves, having left her hometown of Vidisha, Madhya Pradesh, as a teenager and discovering her passion for Indian textiles at a very young age with a focus on chanderi. Popular with celebs like Alia Bhatt, Radhika Apte, Zeenat Aman, Genelia Deshmukh, Shruti Haasan, Dia Mirza, Raveena Tandon, Rasika Dugal and Sara Ali Khan to name a few; her last edit Satori inspired by the Zen Buddhist philosophy is still discussed within many fashion circles. We catch up with Vaishali to talk about her latest edit, Padma, that has just hit stores.
Do tell us everything we need to know about Padma?
While the theme came from the story of Padmavati, it was rather the lotus flower that inspired me at this stage of my path and its transcendence through adversities from the muddy underworld into the light, the spirit over the worldly matter.
You’ve come to be known for a signature look. How different will Padma be?
This collection is quite different from my previous ones as it marks my first extensive Indian bridal collection. While I have created smaller bridal collections in the past, this time, I’m embracing a whole new power from my experiences showcasing five couture collections at Paris Haute Couture Week. This experience has allowed me to revisit traditional silhouettes, colours and textures with profound knowledge and many new techniques.
You are known for your motifs. What can we expect in this edit?
This collection showcases several of my signature techniques and textures, such as my mogra, 3D flower embroidery and signature cording technique. I have also introduced a new element— the 3D chakra texture. I first developed this technique for Satori, which was presented during the Paris Haute Couture Week. The design reflects my spiritual journey and aims to transcend illusions. The chakra spiral motif is crafted through both embroidery and recreated in the bottom drape of a few gowns. Through simple draping, I’ve created interesting circular shapes that evoke this intricate motif and you can see its influence everywhere in the edit.
And the colours?
The colour palette for Padma draws inspiration from the vibrant heritage of Rajasthan. I chose bright, powerful colours like bright yellow, deep blues, reflecting the iconic blue-painted houses of Jodhpur; and peach/pink, the signature hue of Jaipur. This transition from bold colours into a more traditional palette of red, white and gold reinforces the core of festive and wedding wear and the emotions that come with it. Working with handloom allows me to craft unique fabrics, as I am able to blend precise amounts of threads, creating textiles that feel soft and light yet appear rich, luxurious and radiant. This is a huge advantage of working with handlooms, as I was able to create incredible colours directly on the loom with the help of my weavers, of course.
Have you done anything interesting in terms of fabrics?
In this collection, I worked with a new weave that uses ghicha silk, the row yarn that is normally then treated into tussar silk waste, which brings a brightly textured effect to the designs. For a traditional touch, I incorporated banarasi silk for my corded saris and some distinctive blouses. Alongside these, I used my trusted favourites: murshidabad silk and silk-by-silk from West Bengal, which are amazingly smooth and vibrant, as well as my signature metallic silks from Maheshwari, to add a luxurious, radiant glow.
And can we expect the usual silhouettes?
I’ve designed a range of silhouettes that blend tradition with a touch of modern couture. My signature corded saris are paired with unique 3D blouses, for a fresh, structural look. I wanted these saris to be versatile yet distinctly Indian in their essence. You’ll also see traditional lehengas with intricate dupattas and blouses. I’ve introduced some more experimental silhouettes as well. The fishtail skirts, slender and elegant shape paired with the 3D blouses, adding an edgy, couture essence. I also designed gowns with long, trailing skirts and fitted bodices and I included cocktail dresses featuring my signature cording technique, perfect for evening events.
Finally, have you already started working on your next edit?
Yes, I’ve already started on something exciting and new. Currently, I’m preparing for the Paris Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2025 collection and although it’s all very top secret, I can say I’m very exited.
Price on request. Available online.
Email: romal@newindianexpress.com
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